Retro Cheeses Go Modern
Fresh iterations of nostalgic dishes for menu inspiration
Retro Cheeses Go Modern
Fresh iterations of nostalgic dishes for menu inspiration
By Rebecca Peizer
May 24, 2024
By Rebecca Peizer
May 24, 2024
Just as the original recipes for cheesemaking were among the first recorded and passed down through the generations, some dishes are cemented into global cuisines. It’s hard to imagine most restaurant menus, from quick-service chains to Michelin-starred independents, without this delicious ingredient.
Our nomadic ancestors used cheese as the ultimate “protein bar.” Some historians have even credited rations of cheese for the meteoric growth of the Roman Empire. Beloved by authors, chefs, children, royalty and everyone in between, cheese has ascended to near-superhero status. Author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman once characterized cheese as “milk’s leap toward immortality.”
Even cheese dishes that fall in and out of favor over the decades have a tendency to rebound with new ingredients and an evolving flavor profile. The “new-stalgia” trend is breathing fresh life into retro classics. And with menu developers’ unprecedented ability to procure global ingredients, some of the most iconic cheese dishes are in the perfect position to add nuance, whimsy and intrigue to any daypart.
In honor of National Cheese Month, we’re taking a deep dive into five retro-classic, cheese-centric dishes whose style continues to evolve and stand the test of time.
Pimento Cheese Spread: Southern Pâte
Considered by some to be the “pâte” of the American South, pimento cheese spread was first modeled after creamy French Neufchâtel. Originally made with cream cheese and jarred pimentos, the recipe has seen the addition of shredded cheddar cheese, jalapeños and other seasonings over the years. Cream cheese is the perfect primer for any number of flavors and ingredients; it’s also a great way to upcycle leftover cheeses that may otherwise have no home on the menu. Pimento cheese can be used as a condiment for sandwiches and burgers or fancified for charcuterie platters and even used as a stuffing for pasta. Think about additions of global flavor profiles, such as Moroccan preserved lemons and harissa, Calabrian chiles and roasted garlic, or guava jam and jerk spice.
The Cheese Ball: Life of the Party
Often the centerpiece of many a cocktail party, this mixture of creamy and shredded cheeses, such as goat cheese, blue cheese and cheddar, is often adorned with chopped nuts, dried fruits, bacon and green onions. But why stop there? For a healthful spin with Indian flavors, fry spices such as cumin, Nigella seeds, mustard and coriander seeds in ghee until they pop. Then, roll a ball of freshly made paneer cheese in the spices before serving it atop of a creamy spinach saag “pesto” for a twist on the classic saag paneer.
Fried Mozzarella Sticks: Crunchy Canvases
It is easy to translate this finger food into a more upscale version that can be served as part of a lunch or brunch entrée. Fried mozzarella sticks can even be served alone as a bar snack or hors d’oeuvre. Rather than tossing mozzarella in Italian seasoning and breadcrumbs, try marinating it in on-trend herbs and spices—fresh mozzarella’s mild flavor and creamy texture make it a great sponge for flavor. Batters spiced with blends like za’atar, baharat or zhug bring flavorful crunch once fried. Try serving on skewers, Souvlaki-style, for a fun, interactive twist.
Sausage Cheese Balls: Addictive Nibbles
This appetizer is as addictive as it gets, thanks to a combination of shredded cheddar with its nutty, slightly bitter taste, pork sausage and pancake mix. But sausage cheese balls can easily be reimagined by chopping up cured meats or burnt ends, adding some veggies, and coating the balls in a flavorful breading before baking—or frying them for added textural appeal. For example, try making a Reuben Ball with chopped corned beef, kale kraut and white cheddar, rolled and fried in rye breadcrumbs and served with Thousand Island dressing. Sharp and tangy, white cheddar stands up to the pickled meat and kraut flavors. Plus, it melts perfectly, helping this mixture hold together well.
Fondue: Dippable, Melty Monarch
A must-have for any retro-inspired menu and the pinnacle of melted cheese dishes, fondue—and its cousin, the tableside broiled raclette—are perfectly poised for craveable, outside-the-box renditions. The umami-rich, tangy and perfectly melty Emmentaler and Gruyère cheeses are combined with apple cider or white wine and traditionally served with apple, bread, pickles and cauliflower. For an Asian twist, try steamed gyoza or fried wonton dumplings dipped into sake-spiked fondue or an assorted noodle fondue bar where a variety of ramen, soba and udon noodles are dipped into a miso Alfredo sauce fondue. Or for the next Instagrammable brunch, switch to dippers such as waffle bites, silver-dollar pancakes, breakfast sausages, bacon, potato latkes or home fries.
National Cheese Month spans the month of May, but the menu opportunities for this beloved ingredient span the whole year. Rather than reinvent the (cheese) wheel, look to classic dishes as a starting point for flavor innovation that is at once all-new and ever-timeless.
Just as the original recipes for cheesemaking were among the first recorded and passed down through the generations, some dishes are cemented into global cuisines. It’s hard to imagine most restaurant menus, from quick-service chains to Michelin-starred independents, without this delicious ingredient.
Our nomadic ancestors used cheese as the ultimate “protein bar.” Some historians have even credited rations of cheese for the meteoric growth of the Roman Empire. Beloved by authors, chefs, children, royalty and everyone in between, cheese has ascended to near-superhero status. Author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman once characterized cheese as “milk’s leap toward immortality.”
Even cheese dishes that fall in and out of favor over the decades have a tendency to rebound with new ingredients and an evolving flavor profile. The “new-stalgia” trend is breathing fresh life into retro classics. And with menu developers’ unprecedented ability to procure global ingredients, some of the most iconic cheese dishes are in the perfect position to add nuance, whimsy and intrigue to any daypart.
In honor of National Cheese Month, we’re taking a deep dive into five retro-classic, cheese-centric dishes whose style continues to evolve and stand the test of time.
Pimento Cheese Spread: Southern Pâte
Considered by some to be the “pâte” of the American South, pimento cheese spread was first modeled after creamy French Neufchâtel. Originally made with cream cheese and jarred pimentos, the recipe has seen the addition of shredded cheddar cheese, jalapeños and other seasonings over the years. Cream cheese is the perfect primer for any number of flavors and ingredients; it’s also a great way to upcycle leftover cheeses that may otherwise have no home on the menu. Pimento cheese can be used as a condiment for sandwiches and burgers or fancified for charcuterie platters and even used as a stuffing for pasta. Think about additions of global flavor profiles, such as Moroccan preserved lemons and harissa, Calabrian chiles and roasted garlic, or guava jam and jerk spice.
The Cheese Ball: Life of the Party
Often the centerpiece of many a cocktail party, this mixture of creamy and shredded cheeses, such as goat cheese, blue cheese and cheddar, is often adorned with chopped nuts, dried fruits, bacon and green onions. But why stop there? For a healthful spin with Indian flavors, fry spices such as cumin, Nigella seeds, mustard and coriander seeds in ghee until they pop. Then, roll a ball of freshly made paneer cheese in the spices before serving it atop of a creamy spinach saag “pesto” for a twist on the classic saag paneer.
Fried Mozzarella Sticks: Crunchy Canvases
It is easy to translate this finger food into a more upscale version that can be served as part of a lunch or brunch entrée. Fried mozzarella sticks can even be served alone as a bar snack or hors d’oeuvre. Rather than tossing mozzarella in Italian seasoning and breadcrumbs, try marinating it in on-trend herbs and spices—fresh mozzarella’s mild flavor and creamy texture make it a great sponge for flavor. Batters spiced with blends like za’atar, baharat or zhug bring flavorful crunch once fried. Try serving on skewers, Souvlaki-style, for a fun, interactive twist.
Sausage Cheese Balls: Addictive Nibbles
This appetizer is as addictive as it gets, thanks to a combination of shredded cheddar with its nutty, slightly bitter taste, pork sausage and pancake mix. But sausage cheese balls can easily be reimagined by chopping up cured meats or burnt ends, adding some veggies, and coating the balls in a flavorful breading before baking—or frying them for added textural appeal. For example, try making a Reuben Ball with chopped corned beef, kale kraut and white cheddar, rolled and fried in rye breadcrumbs and served with Thousand Island dressing. Sharp and tangy, white cheddar stands up to the pickled meat and kraut flavors. Plus, it melts perfectly, helping this mixture hold together well.
Fondue: Dippable, Melty Monarch
A must-have for any retro-inspired menu and the pinnacle of melted cheese dishes, fondue—and its cousin, the tableside broiled raclette—are perfectly poised for craveable, outside-the-box renditions. The umami-rich, tangy and perfectly melty Emmentaler and Gruyère cheeses are combined with apple cider or white wine and traditionally served with apple, bread, pickles and cauliflower. For an Asian twist, try steamed gyoza or fried wonton dumplings dipped into sake-spiked fondue or an assorted noodle fondue bar where a variety of ramen, soba and udon noodles are dipped into a miso Alfredo sauce fondue. Or for the next Instagrammable brunch, switch to dippers such as waffle bites, silver-dollar pancakes, breakfast sausages, bacon, potato latkes or home fries.
National Cheese Month spans the month of May, but the menu opportunities for this beloved ingredient span the whole year. Rather than reinvent the (cheese) wheel, look to classic dishes as a starting point for flavor innovation that is at once all-new and ever-timeless.
About the Author
Chef Rebecca Peizer is the owner of the culinary consultancy All Things Culinary LLC, as well as a professor, consulting partner, digital media talent and conference stage manager for the Culinary Institute of America at Copia in Napa Valley, Calif. She has worked for many esteemed wineries, restaurants, resorts and culinary schools in New York, Napa Valley and Las Vegas. She implemented the nation’s first farm-to-table culinary program at the Culinary School of the Rockies in Boulder, Colo., and does pro bono work for the Salvation Army and Gray Haven Health & Wellness. Rebecca is an active forager and herbalist and has earned certifications in cheesemaking, permaculture design, professional wine studies, CEC and CHE.
