Flavor Trends, Strategies and Solutions for Menu Development

 

How Marlow’s Subverts the Typical Tavern Menu

A steady pipeline of globally inspired dishes keeps things fresh

How Marlow’s Subverts the Typical Tavern Menu

A steady pipeline of globally inspired dishes keeps things fresh

By Nicole Duncan
December 11, 2024

By Nicole Duncan
December 11, 2024

 

When Marlow’s Tavern opened its first location in Alpharetta, Ga., casual fare that blended American classics with global flavors was a rarity beyond culinary capitals like New York, Chicago and San Francisco. At face value, the word “tavern” also suggested a more casual establishment—one that could be described, at best, as a gastropub.

“We had a vision to reinvent the neighborhood tavern for the 21st century,” says John Metz, cofounder and CEO of Marlow’s Tavern. “It’s an upscale tavern menu with elements from around the world. I think it was a really fun approach for my team and me to embrace. We could bring anything into Georgia and make it work with our Southern roots.”

He offers nachos as an example of a straightforward dish that was ripe for the “Marlow’s twist.” Rather than pile sauces, meats and cheeses atop a stack of corn chips, the restaurant tops large chips with fresh crab, mozzarella, provolone, pepper Jack and fresh jalapeño. The decision to portion the nachos as individual servings rather than a free-for-all plate was also uncommon when the first restaurant opened in 2004. Fast-forward to present day, and the Shrimp & Crab “Nacho” Plate is still among the most popular offerings.

In November, Marlow’s Tavern celebrated its 20th anniversary, prompting Metz to reflect on the concept’s culinary evolution and look ahead to its future. With 18 locations across Georgia and Florida, it has remained a regional brand with steady, sustainable growth.

Through the years, the restaurant landscape has changed dramatically, and thanks to the rise of foodie culture, culinary curiosity is at an all-time high. Where once Marlow’s had some solitude in the globally inspired New American category, there now exists a more crowded field. Metz doesn’t mind the competition—if anything he relishes seeing big brands and independents alike in the space. “Nobody does it like we do it, but they try hard, which is great,” he says. These new players also challenge Marlow’s to continue to constantly innovate rather than rest on its laurels.

Photo Credit: Brandon Amato

The Shrimp & Crab “Nacho” Plate upends expectations with individually portioned corn chips topped with fresh seafood, a trio of cheeses and fresh jalapeños.

To that end, the menu changes at least twice a year, with specials for spring/summer and fall/winter. The most recent edition debuted last month and features hearty entrées such as Brisket Grilled Cheese (smoked brisket, cheddar, Swiss cheese and horseradish aïoli on chile-smeared multigrain), Miso Black Cod (broiled and served with shrimp-fried rice, kung pao shrimp and a Thai sweet chile sauce) and Vegetable Lasagna, featuring roasted sweet potato, spinach, red onion, basil, ricotta, provolone, Parmesan, roasted tomato cream and chive oil.

On the starter menu, Duck Spring Rolls marry flavors from different corners of the globe. Pulled duck confit is combined with queso fresco, black bean-and-corn salsa, salsa verde and cilantro. “It’s got a little spice and a little heat,” Metz says. “You don’t see a lot of duck confit on these kinds of menus. You maybe wouldn’t see that in your neighborhood pub—that Marlow’s twist makes a difference.”

Another one of Metz’s favorites from the latest menu is the Beet Tartare. At first glance, the finely chopped tartare, topped with horseradish aïoli and served with housemade wheat thins, looks no different from the classic beef rendition, but the root vegetable’s intense purple hue quickly reveals the fresh spin. “It’s got the classic ingredients—chopped egg, capers, mustard—but we also introduced a little miso and a little horseradish. So there’s a bit of an Asian flair. The miso brings out the beet flavor and works well with the capers and the chopped onion,” he says.

Photo Credit: Cameron Rogers

Standouts among the winter specials include Carnitas Duck Spring Rolls and Beet Tartare, both of which incorporate novelty into familiar dishes.

Although bold flavors and novel dishes are an integral part of Marlow’s, pub staples still anchor the menu. Metz says the No. 1 seller is either the Classic Tavern Burger or the Royale With Cheese, which features Wagyu beef, American cheese and a dill pickle in a buttery sesame brioche bun. Given the breadth and creativity of the menu, this preference might seem discouraging, but Metz points out the crucial role fan favorites play. “People come in for our burgers and say, ‘If they do the burger right, then next time I’ll try the salmon dish or the steak.’ It’s fun to see: They’ll come back and try something crazy that’s maybe a little more elevated,” he says.

In addition to the big-swing, seasonal updates, the F&B team continues to refine the existing line-up with strategic upgrades or ingredient swaps. “At some level, every dish has been modified over the course of the past 20 years,” Metz says, calling out Marlow’s iconic Shrimp & Crab Nacho as the lone exception. “But we only make changes on existing items if it makes them better.”

Early entry into the craft cocktail movement is another bragging right for Marlow’s Tavern. Back in the mid-aughts when bars were teeming with cosmopolitans and apple-tinis, the restaurant was slinging pomegranate martinis in coupe glasses. “We took the martini and had some fun with it and, wow, it was the most amazing pomegranate martini back when nobody was even doing pomegranate martinis,” Metz recalls. “The craft cocktail scene was barely evolving when we opened. So we took the same approach with the cocktails as we did with the food: We started with the basics and put fresh twists on them.”

Like the food menu, new libations are rotated onto the selection at least twice a year. The latest additions feature riffs on complex classics: Wine-based amaro takes the place of sweet vermouth in the Luxardo Manhattan, while the Gin Job builds off the iconic gimlet, infusing basil into housemade syrup and adding cucumber. Pomegranate also pops up again—this time in a mojito format.

Photo Credit: Cameron Rogers

The seasonal Pomegranate Mojito is a nod to one of Marlow’s first libations, the Pomegranate Martini, which debuted ahead of the craft cocktail boom.

The dichotomy of Marlow’s menu is, in a way, reflective of Metz himself. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he worked in fine-dining kitchens under such illustrious chefs as David Burke before landing the role of executive director of research and development at the Carlson Group, which then owned TGI Fridays, among other concepts. “I was exposed to a lot more than I would have been if I had just started my own concept right away,” he says. “I learned how to create a menu from scratch in a way that’s different from independent restaurants.”

The position also took Metz around the world, where he encountered new ingredients and cuisines. Those experiences have shaped not only the menu at Marlow’s but also how the culinary team stays creative, namely through travel and engagement with colleagues, guests and industry institutions.

When asked what’s on his flavor radar, Metz points to South America, specifically Peru. “There are some flavors and ingredients that I think have an opportunity—and that have been around—but how do you reinvent them to be as approachable and recognizable on U.S. menus as some traditional Mexican ingredients?”

He’s also eager to experiment with vinegar, on both the food and beverage sides of the menu. “I’m always fascinated by and love to work with vinegars,” he says. “We incorporate them into cocktails; we make shrubs and other things. I like strong, robust flavors. So figuring out ways to bring that to life to enhance a sauce, a dish or even a marinade is always fun for me.”

But no matter which trends work their way along the innovation pipeline and onto the menu, Metz is adamant that it will fit with Marlow’s value proposition in which flavor-forward dishes are served in a casual atmosphere at an affordable price. “We try to make fresh, quality statements throughout everything we do, whether it’s the food or the beverage or even the service,” Metz says. “We’ve always thought of ourselves as four-star-inspired service, with the things you see in four-star dining but in a really casual, comfortable way.”

About the Author

mmNicole Duncan is the digital managing editor of Flavor & the Menu. She's reported on the restaurant industry for a decade, most recently as the editor of FSR magazine. In 2021, she won a Folio award for her feature on restaurant tycoon Tilman Ferttita. The following year, FSR was awarded Best Overall Issue for its May 2022 issue featuring Andrew Zimmern. She has profiled well-known chefs including Paola Velez, Fabio Viviani and Daniel Boulud, but also relishes the opportunity to spotlight under-the-radar trends and innovators.

 

 

About The Author

Nicole Duncan

Nicole Duncan is the digital managing editor of Flavor & the Menu. She's reported on the restaurant industry for a decade, most recently as the editor of FSR magazine. In 2021, she won a Folio award for her feature on restaurant tycoon Tilman Ferttita. The following year, FSR was awarded Best Overall Issue for its May 2022 issue featuring Andrew Zimmern. She has profiled well-known chefs including Paola Velez, Fabio Viviani and Daniel Boulud, but also relishes the opportunity to spotlight under-the-radar trends and innovators.