At seafood-centric Oceana in Manhattan, Bill Telepan approaches mild fish, like his top-selling halibut, from the opposite flavor direction. “Since halibut itself has a low flavor profile with very little fat, we prepare it using more pronounced ingredients,” he says. “The strong flavors we tend to use are: sunchokes and mushrooms in the winter; horseradish and shallot confit in the spring; and cherry tomatoes poached in olive oil and thyme in the summer.”
The volume of seafood brought through Oceana’s kitchen is larger than at many other restaurants, and presents him with a unique challenge. “The biggest challenge we face being a seafood-centric restaurant is the cooking component,” he says. “Finding different ways to prepare each fish while still complementing its individual characteristics takes a lot of creativity and open-minded thinking.”
