Natsume Aoi

It’s unusual for a bread course to become a restaurant’s signature, but that’s precisely the case at contemporary Japanese restaurant Taru, where the housemade shokupan, or milk bread, is considered a must-order starter.

Each day, Natsume Aoi, Pastry Chef, creates a simple milk bread from flour, water and salt, guaranteeing a fresh loaf for every order. “Delicious does not have to mean complicated,” says Aoi. That simplicity also means it’s one of the most profitable items on over at Taru while also serving double duty elsewhere on the menu: The Katsu Sando stars pork katsu tucked into the pillowy signature milk bread.

For the bread-and-butter starter combination, Aoi opts for aonori butter (butter infused with ground seaweed), which lends a briny hint of the sea and natural umami, plus a vibrant green color. Elegant triangles of the milk bread, toasted and brushed with rich beef tallow, are served in an artful presentation featuring bowls of the aonori butter and Maldon sea salt. “Sometimes simple really is best,” says Aoi.