Trigg Brown

Win Son Restaurant and Bakery features craveable Taiwanese-American fare, helping build momentum in the U.S. behind this global cuisine. Its menu stars flavor bombs like Sesame Noodles with black sesame purée, oyster mushrooms, snow pea leaves and peanuts. But it’s the Xi Fan (the Taiwanese term for congee) that’s earned a deeper dive here. For this dish, Trigg Brown, executive chef, sources Australian Wagyu ribeye cap. “The fat in really good meat carries the story of where it’s from and how it was raised, and it also takes on smoke really well,” says Brown. “I knew this would be a great way to showcase the beautiful beef.”

He slowly chars the ribeye cap over a binchotan grill. “Traditionally in Taiwan, congee is soupy and loose. But I made it a bit firmer as a platform to hold and carry the melted Wagyu fat and flavor; it’s perfect for that,” he says. A condiment made with garlic, ginger, scallion and mustard greens, plus chile oil, lands a punch of herbaceous notes and aromatics. At service, Brown slices the ribeye cap, retherms and plates the portions, tucking in a little pork floss. “The floss is a traditional condiment and adds that bacon-like saltiness and unique texture while allowing the Wagyu to be the star,” says Brown.

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